With biotech, “the entire tree of life starts to become accessible to us ethically and sustainably,” says Arcaea CEO Jasmina Aganovic. Her company, launched in October 2021, is developing custom keratin molecules for skin and hair, as well as new UV filter technology, among other innovations to expand formulators’ toolkits, not just replace problematic ingredients.

Paula’s Choice ticks skin-care and e-commerce boxes at a time of increased wellness and home shopping demand. The balance it strikes between acknowledging consumer ingredient preferences and upholding scientific method may also be part of the brand's appeal.

Beiersdorf and former owner Bayer are on the verge of settling a proposed class action in California’s Northern District challenging “mineral-based” claims on Coppertone sunscreens that also contain chemical UV filters. However, the parties will have to try again with their proposed terms.